Review: Willy’s Restaurant ‘A well put together and handsome unit’

The warm, dusty rose hues of Margate House Hotel welcome you in from the dark cold bite of a Margate December; a reward for braving miserable weather on a bitter night. 

I’m assured the boutique nine-bedroom hotel’s front bar is equally inviting in summer, but it is such a snug warm hug on this particular cold night, I’m more interested in nabbing seats closest to the fire for a pre-dinner glass of wine than the coming August. 

The charming, art-adorned hotel is home to Willy’s, one of the latest additions to Margate’s ever expanding selection of places to eat. Although the bar is not part of the restaurant, it is en route, tempting you in for an aperitif or digestif, or both.

Much like the hotel, the restaurant is a well put together and handsome unit, playfully drenched in shades of pink like a Farrow and Ball dream and finished with interior embellishments worth coveting. A lot of thought has gone into how the restaurant looks at every level, right down to the very pleasing menu font. Yet despite the clear effort and precision in stylings, Willy’s is a relaxed spot. This is largely thanks to the chirpy, unaffected front of house team, who are delightful at every turn. Also, there are no children allowed, except on Sundays. A bit harsh I thought at first, but on this Saturday night, it was very nice dining without the risk of a sticky handed toddler rampaging around tables. And it’s all about ambience isn’t it? 

Opened in November 2025, Willy’s is small but grand. Portions are generous and satiating and the drinks list has been put together by ex-Sète general manager Amy - the house wine is a fine choice and a solid starting point. 

The dining room juts off from the open kitchen, where chef Mark O'Brien and team do their thing. O'Brien, who previously cheffed at provenance-led outfits like Whitstable bistro Samphire and Robin Gill’s The Dairy and Zebra Riding Club at Birch, is also known around these parts for his Snake Oil BBQ residency at the now closed Daisy’s. 

Stepping away from flame-licked whole beast cooking and small plates, O’brien has put together a menu of classic British dishes that are familiar and filling, yet sophisticated - black pudding scotch egg and beef rump tartare with dripping toast to start, and sausage and mash and roast chicken with mushroom and tarragon sauce, for example. 

But there are also bolder choices on the menu too. The warm bowl of coronation mussels - ordered because it sounded weird - was the standout of the night. Silken mollusks bathed in a fragrant and light amber curry broth which was quickly devoured down to its last spoonful. It was so good, I would have happily slurped up the broth on its own. 

The devils on horseback, a pre-starter starter of melt-in-your-mouth dates roasted to a sweet cream, wrapped in salty bacon with a crunchy hazelnut centre, were also delicious. 

For mains, the pork chop, served with a sharp lick of English mustard was thick, juicy and the size of your hand. The celeriac wellington was a more delicate mouthful; a soft and gently sweet parcel swathed in crisp golden pastry. 

So good were the grated Brussels sprouts side - a well seasoned mess of grated sprout and hazelnut rubble, an attempt to recreate the dish featured on the Christmas day table. 

For dessert, the zippy lemon and poppy seed drizzle cake served with a gentle milk ice cream and crunchy roasted cake crumbs was a light touch. More indulgent, the velvety sticky toffee pudding outshone all other sticky toffee puddings. Bright ginger ice cream cut through the dense, molasses-black cake and a tar of butter caramel sauce. 

Willy’s and Margate House Hotel’s front bar are both good-looking, well-conceived and welcoming spots with a compact but considered drinks menu and refined but unfussy and hearty dishes. We’ll be back in the summer for sure. 

Margate House Hotel, 6 Dalby Square, Margate, CT9 2ER willys.co.uk